
Nail trimming is one of those tasks that makes many dog owners nervous. The fear of cutting the quick and causing pain keeps countless dogs walking around with overgrown nails—which actually causes more problems than the occasional nick.
This guide will help you trim your dog’s nails confidently, or at minimum, understand when to ask for professional help.
Why Nail Length Matters
Long nails aren’t just a cosmetic issue. They cause real problems:
- Altered gait — Long nails force dogs to walk unnaturally, stressing joints and muscles
- Pain when walking — Nails that touch the ground push back into the nail bed with each step
- Increased injury risk — Long nails can snag, tear, or break
- Traction problems — Especially on hard floors, leading to slipping
- Paw deformation — Over time, chronically long nails can spread toes
The Ideal Length
When your dog stands, their nails should not touch the floor. If you hear clicking when they walk on hard surfaces, the nails are too long.
Understanding the Quick
The quick is the blood vessel and nerve inside the nail. Cutting it hurts and causes bleeding—this is what everyone fears.
Finding the Quick
- White/clear nails: The quick is visible as a pink area inside the nail
- Black nails: Can’t see the quick. Look at the underside of the nail—the hollow area indicates where the quick starts
- When in doubt: Trim less and more frequently
Important Fact
The quick grows with the nail. If nails have been long for a while, the quick has extended. You’ll need to trim small amounts frequently (every 1-2 weeks) to encourage the quick to recede. You can’t safely take off large amounts at once.
Tools You’ll Need
Clippers vs Grinders
Guillotine Clippers
- Single blade that slides across the nail
- Best for: Small to medium dogs with thin nails
- Pros: Affordable, simple to use
- Cons: Can crush thick nails, blade needs replacement
Scissor/Plier Clippers
- Two blades that work like scissors
- Best for: Medium to large dogs with thicker nails
- Pros: More control, works on all nail sizes
- Cons: Requires more technique
Nail Grinders (Dremel-style)
- Rotating file that sands down the nail
- Best for: Dogs afraid of clippers, thick nails, smoothing edges
- Pros: Very gradual removal, smooth finish, less risk of quick
- Cons: Noise, vibration, can get warm, takes longer
Essential Supplies
- Quality clippers or grinder
- Styptic powder (stops bleeding if you hit the quick)
- Treats (high value—this is not the time for boring biscuits)
- Good lighting
- Non-slip surface
The Trimming Technique
Before You Start
- Make sure your dog is calm (after exercise is ideal)
- Gather all supplies within reach
- Position your dog comfortably—smaller dogs can be in your lap or on a table, larger dogs on the floor
- Have treats ready
Clipping Step-by-Step
- Hold the paw firmly but gently — Don’t squeeze, but don’t let them pull away easily
- Isolate one toe — Push hair away and extend the nail
- Identify where to cut — 2-3mm before the quick (white nails) or just the curved tip (black nails)
- Position clippers — Cut at a 45-degree angle, matching the nail’s natural curve
- Make a clean, quick cut — Hesitation crushes the nail
- Immediately reward — Treat and praise after each nail
- Check for sharp edges — File if needed
For Black Nails
Take tiny slices off the tip. After each cut, look at the cut surface:
- White/grey: Safe to continue
- Dark spot in centre: Getting close to quick, stop
- Pink/moist: You’ve reached the quick, stop
Don’t Forget the Dewclaws
Most dogs have dewclaws on their front legs (some on rear legs too). These don’t touch the ground, so they don’t wear down naturally and can curl into the pad if neglected.
If You Cut the Quick
It happens to everyone eventually. Don’t panic.
- Stay calm — Your dog will pick up on your energy
- Apply styptic powder — Press into the nail end for 30 seconds
- No styptic powder? — Cornstarch or flour works in a pinch
- Keep pressure — Don’t keep checking; it restarts bleeding
- Restrict activity — No running or playing for an hour
Bleeding usually stops within 5-10 minutes. If it continues beyond 30 minutes, contact your vet.
Important: After cutting the quick, don’t end the session on that note. Do one more nail (successfully) so the last memory isn’t pain, then lots of treats.
Handling Nervous Dogs
Many dogs hate nail trims. Here’s how to make progress:
Desensitisation (Start Here)
Before any actual trimming, teach your dog that paw handling = good things:
- Week 1: Touch paws, treat. Multiple times daily.
- Week 2: Hold paws, touch individual toes, treat.
- Week 3: Extend toes, touch nails, treat.
- Week 4: Touch clippers to nails (no cutting), treat.
- Week 5: Clip one nail, treat. End session.
During Trims
- Don’t restrain forcefully — Creates more fear
- Accept partial progress — Two nails today is better than a traumatic full trim
- Use high-value treats — Cheese, meat, whatever your dog loves most
- Keep sessions short — Quit while you’re ahead
- Try different positions — Some dogs do better standing, lying down, or even upside down in your lap
Grinder Desensitisation
If using a grinder, add these steps:
- Let dog sniff grinder while off
- Turn on grinder at distance while treating
- Bring grinder closer (still not touching) while treating
- Touch grinder (off) to nails while treating
- Touch spinning grinder to one nail briefly
How Often to Trim
| Situation | Frequency |
|---|---|
| Normal maintenance | Every 2-4 weeks |
| Receding an overgrown quick | Every 1-2 weeks (small amounts) |
| Dogs who walk on concrete/pavement daily | Every 4-6 weeks (nails wear naturally) |
| Senior dogs/less active | Every 2-3 weeks |
When to Get Professional Help
There’s no shame in letting professionals handle nail trims. Consider it if:
- Your dog is aggressive or extremely fearful
- You’ve tried desensitisation without progress
- Your dog has very dark, thick nails
- Nails are severely overgrown
- You’re too nervous to trim confidently
Most groomers offer nail-only appointments, and many vets will do quick trims during visits. The cost is usually minimal.
The Bottom Line
Regular nail maintenance is important for your dog’s comfort and health. Whether you do it yourself or get professional help, don’t let nails get overgrown.
If you’re learning, start slow. It’s better to trim a little frequently than to try taking off too much at once. And if you hit the quick? It’s not the end of the world. Apply styptic powder, give extra treats, and try again next week.
Want to build your dog’s confidence with all aspects of grooming? See our guide on training your dog to enjoy brushing.
Related Reading
Continue exploring our grooming guides:
- How to Clean Your Dog’s Ears Safely at Home: A Step-by-Step Guide
- How to Groom a Doodle Puppy at Home: Complete Australian Guide (2025)
- Winter Coat Care: Protecting Your Dog’s Skin and Fur in Cold Weather
Ready to book a professional grooming session? Book your appointment or view our services.
